Archive for the 'Safety' Category

Protect Your Child From Dangerous Home Electrical Hazards

Monday, April 9th, 2007

Bringing a baby home from the hospital is the perfect time to think about childproofing your house. Don’t wait; before you know it, your child will be crawling around, exploring your home, investigating everything with insatiable curiosity. The sooner you move harmful household chemicals and other potential dangers out of the way, the better. Unintentional injury is the leading cause of death for children, claiming more lives even than disease, according to Safe Kids Worldwide, a global organization whose mission is to prevent accidental childhood injury. When childproofing your home, don’t forget about electricity. We take it for granted because it is so much a part of our daily lives, but it can be deadly when mishandled, even in small amounts. The electricity in one 7.5 watt Christmas tree light bulb, if passed through the chest, is enough to kill an adult in less than one second. That’s why it’s essential that you childproof your home against electrical shock, and educate your children to be aware of its dangers. The Leviton Institute recommends you take the following precautions to insure the safety of your children:

• Tamper-Proof Outlets:
Install tamper-proof outlets. Designed to keep young fingers out of unused outlets, they feature an internal barrier that only allows insertion of a properly rated plug, while keeping out fingers and foreign
objects.

• Child-Resistant Wallplates:
Add a child-resistant wallplate to unprotected outlets. These fit over a standard receptacle, and protect unused outlets with a spring-loaded wallplate that is easy for adults to open, but difficult for children to
access.

• Outlets Caps:
Insert plastic outlet caps into empty receptacles. A snap to install, they greatly reduce the risk of electrical shock by blocking toddlers’ fingers from contact with unused outlets.

• Switch Locks:
Install switch locks. These fit over most standard wall switches, and use handy locking snaps to prevent children from turning lights or appliances on or off.

• Extender Wallplates:
Create access to switches kids need to reach but can’t with extender wallplates, which fit over standard toggle switches.

• Nightlights:
Use a nightlight to provide a reassuring guide in the dark for your child. Perfect for the nursery, bathroom, or bedroom, they come in a wide variety of kid-friendly styles featuring teddy bears, dinosaurs, and angels. Some models offer a convenient automatic On/Off feature that turns on at dusk, off at dawn. Another practical design fits over both outlets of a standard duplex receptacle, blocking the unused outlet from prying fingers while casting a warm glow at night. And they are economical, running on just pennies a day.

• GFCIs:
Install Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) in any room with a water source within six feet of an outlet, such as bathrooms, kitchens, etc. They protect you and your children against shock or electrocution by shutting off the power at the receptacle when they detect current leaking from the circuit to ground. Always be sure your children understand that water and electricity don’t mix; appliances like radios and hairdryers should never be used near a sink or bath.

• Light Bulbs:
Make sure that every light socket within a child’s reach has a bulb in it.

• Extension Cords:
Avoid using extension cords in a child’s room whenever possible. Kids are liable to chew on them, particularly when nothing is plugged into them or pull on them, knocking over a lamp or appliance.

WARNING Federal Pacific Electric Stab-Lok Equipment Hazard

Monday, April 9th, 2007

There is no question but that the FPE STAB-LOK(R) panels should be replaced. There is no practical and safe alternative.

Supposing the circuits in your home were fed by a fuse box, with screw-in (Edison base) fuses. You may have seen these in some homes. You may also know about the common (but unsafe) practices of over-fusing (installing a higher-amperage fuse) or putting a penny in the fuse socket behind the fuse itself. These actions were taken to deal with the nuisance of fuses frequently blowing on overloaded circuits, or to deal with the lack of a spare fuse. Now, let’s assume that an inspector notes some over-fusing and pennies behind some fuses, and waves the warning flag that it is a hazardous condition - a “safety defect”. Inspectors, electrical contractors, and even realtors would agree that these conditions constitute a hazardous condition and should be corrected immediately. Red-flagging the Federal Pacific Electric (”FPE”) Stab-Lok(R) panel is essentially the identical warning; it is the exact equivalent of having more than 1/3 of the circuits over-fused and/or with pennies behind the fuses.

Failure to trip properly under overload and/or short circuit is the basic safety defect of the FPE breakers. For example, if an overload or short circuit occurs in the clothes dryer or the circuit feeding it, the breaker is expected to trip open to minimize the resulting fire hazard. But, if it is an FPE Stab-Lok(R) two-pole breaker, extensive testing (by FPE, CPSC, UL, and others) has demonstrated that it cannot be depended on to trip properly. In the CPSC tests, a substantial portion of the FPE two-pole Stab-Lok(R) breakers, the type that would feed the dryer circuit, failed to operate properly. A significant portion of them jammed and would not trip at all, no matter what overload current was applied. Additional test data shows that there are also problems with the FPE Stab-Lok(R) single-pole breakers and combination breaker/GFI units.

This type of safety defect becomes important if and when there is a short circuit or substantial overload in the downstream circuit. Most breakers in a home are never called upon to trip, and the homeowner’s perception is that “the breakers work fine”. The same observation could generally be made if there were no breakers (or fuses) at all, just a hardwired system. In the event of an electrical malfunction, however, our safety may depend on proper operation of the circuit breakers.

In my own home, only two of the breakers have ever tripped during more than a quarter-century of our occupancy. I know nothing about the ability of any of the others to function properly, except that they are a brand and type that has not been identified as having any significant performance problems. There is no data suggesting that I should be concerned about their ability to function properly. With FPE breakers, however, there is a significant amount of test data and other information available that indicates a serious problem.

Additionally, there are safety problems in many of the FPE panelboards (panels), in which the breakers are installed. Some of the most common FPE Stab-Lok(R) panels are failure-prone due to marginal interconnections between the current-carrying components. The failing interconnections overheat at high current loading, and, in the worst case, fire ignites within the panel.1

Details regarding both the FPE Stab-Lok(R) circuit breaker and FPE panel performance problems are provided in the following sections.? The bottom line is this: based on the information that is available and the testing that has been performed, there is no question but that homeowners need to be alerted to this safety defect and advised to have it corrected. Unless the occupant is willing to live with the risk, the FPE Stab-Lok(R) panels should be replaced.

SHOULD FPE STAB-LOK(R) PANELS BE REPLACED?

If I inspected your own home and found that it had a fuse box with 1/3 of the circuits over-fused or with pennies behind the fuses, how long would it be before you had it corrected? Would you sleep tight without it being corrected? Would the fact that your house had not had any problem (burned down yet) because of the over-fusing and pennies influence your decision as to whether or not to take corrective action?

Unlike over-fusing and pennies behind the fuses, defective FPE breakers cannot be spotted by an inspector or tested by an electrician or homeowner. Without doing a functional test (at overload and short-circuit conditions) on each breaker, one pole at a time for the two-pole breakers, one cannot actually determine the present operating characteristics of a breaker.
Most electricians or electrical inspectors can only look at the breakers (”they look OK to me”), and operate the toggle (”they click on and off OK”). But without doing live-current functional testing on all of the breakers, it is impossible to determine which of the breakers in the panel are defective. Will they all trip properly on electrical overload or short circuit? Electrical contractors and inspectors are generally not equipped to do that type of testing, and homeowners or potential purchasers are not likely to have the required budget for extensive specialized testing. In fact, thorough testing would most likely cost far more than changing the panel.

The presence of an FPE panel in a home should be classified as a “Safety Defect”. The FPE breakers are primary safety devices of questionable operating reliability. It is not quite correct to call the non-tripping breaker a “fire hazard”. That term should be reserved for the electrical failure that causes ignition. >The breaker?s function is to stop certain electrical sequences that could, if allowed to proceed, lead to fire in the building. If an electrical fire hazard develops somewhere in the building, the breaker is supposed to trip and minimize the possibility of fire ignition. If the breaker is defective, fire is more likely to result.

There is no question but that the FPE STAB-LOK(R) panels should be replaced. There is no practical and safe alternative.

If you are still not convinced or need additional information go to the website http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpestlouis.htm

Electrical Safety

Monday, April 9th, 2007

How Safe Is Your Home From Electrical Dangers?

We treasure our homes as a safe and cozy place where we can relax with family and friends. But there may be invisible hazards hidden behind your walls or lurking unseen outdoors that threaten your safety and that of your loved ones. With May being National Electrical Safety Month, now is a good time to find out just how safe your home is from electrical hazards. According to the National Fire Protection Association, there’s plenty of reason for concern: nearly 32,000 fires in the home were caused by faulty house wiring or wiring devices each year between 1999 and 2002. These fires resulted in 220 deaths, 950 injuries, and $674 million in property damage annually. Now for the good news — there is something you can do to safeguard your home from dangerous electrical hazards. The Leviton Institute recommends you hire a qualified electrician to make a thorough inspection of your house and grounds every ten years. You should also make your own yearly inspection a part of your regular spring chores. It’s easy - just follow this list:

1. Outdoor GFCIs:
Make sure all outdoor receptacles are protected by Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) and a weatherproof cover. With warmer weather just around the corner, pools, hot tubs and barbeques are going to start getting a lot of use. Make sure pool pumps, hot tubs and appliances you use outdoors are plugged into GFCI-protected outlets. These will safeguard your friends and family from dangerous electrical shock. GFCIs detect when current is leaking from an electrical circuit to ground and utomatically shut off the power at the receptacle. They have saved hundreds of lives since they were first introduced in 1972 according to the National Electrical Safety Foundation. When choosing a GFCI, it’s important to note that Underwriters Laboratories (UL) is updating its requirements for these devices this summer. New models will be introduced that offer greater protection by automatically blocking the reset button (ensuring that no power is available) if they are improperly wired. All GFCIs produced after July 28, 2006 will include these new features, although GFCIs made before then may still be offered for sale after that date. With both newer and older models, it is important to periodically test (according to the manufacturer’s instructions) your installed GFCIs to make sure they are still working properly.

2. Indoor GFCIs:
Kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, or any other place around the house that has a water source within six feet of the receptacle needs GFCI protection. Remember: water and electricity are a potentially deadly combination. Keep appliances like radios or hair dryers away from sinks, tubs, and pools.

3. Defective Wiring Devices:
Check outlets and switches for cracks, broken parts, or loose-fitting plugs. Replace defective devices immediately, as well as those that feel hot to the touch.

4. Overloaded Outlets:
Make sure outlets are not overloaded. Most household outlets are typically rated around 15-20 amps. Plugging too many appliances into one outlet can exceed that rating and create a fire or shock hazard.

5. Visual Inspections:
Inspect all power cords and extension cords: those showing signs of cracking, fraying, or obvious wear should be replaced immediately.

6. Extension Cords:
Never run extensions under rugs, carpets, or furniture where damage might occur unseen and start a fire. When using an extension cord, always plug the appliance into the extension cord first before plugging the extension cord into the outlet.

7. Light Bulbs:
Be sure to replace a burned-out light bulb with one that doesn’t exceed the recommended wattage for the lamp socket.

Inside Tips for Outdoor Electrical Safety

Monday, April 9th, 2007

With the welcome arrival of the spring and summer months, most of us will spend more time outdoors, barbecuing, going to the beach, recreating, and of course, tending to chores like yard work and home repairs. While you enjoy the fresh air, don’t let a dangerous electrical hazard put you at risk. Now that spring is here, catch up on your exercise and be sure to exercise caution when using outdoor electrical appliances, equipment and tools. While you’re at it, make sure to steer clear of mother nature’s own brand of electricity — lightning. Here are some tips the Leviton Institute recommends to keep you safe from the dangers of electricity as you begin spending more time outdoors.

Extension and Power Cords
When using electric appliances like leaf blowers, lawnmowers, or hedge trimmers, always make sure any extension cord you use is rated for outdoor use. Make sure too that the cord isn’t too long or too thin, as it may not provide the proper amount of current to your appliance, and eventually damage or destroy the motor, overload the cord, and create an unsafe condition. The proper amperage required by most tools and appliances is usually displayed somewhere on them; make sure the extension cord you’re using is rated for this amperage. Check all power cords and extension cords for cracks or nicks before using them. Replace them with a new one if they show obvious signs of wear, taped-over cuts, broken plugs, etc. And when you’re finished using them, be sure to put the cord and the appliance safely away.

Standing on Shaky Ground
How often have you seen a three-pronged (grounding) plug with either the third prong removed, or with all three prongs somehow jammed into a two-pronged extension cord? Plenty of times, no doubt. Never remove the grounding pin from a three-pronged plug. This sort of jury-rigging defeats the proper grounding of the appliance, rendering it unsafe. Another thing to be aware of is whether the appliance you’re using is rated for outdoor use. Check to be sure. Most products rated for outdoor use are weather resistant to some degree; those that aren’t could become dangerous after a brief sprinkle or possibly even in dewy night air.

BBQ-Tips
It may seem obvious, but nevertheless it needs to be said: do not barbecue on an electric grill when it’s raining, or even just drizzling. Be sure to unplug the grill before cleaning it, and, as with all outdoor appliances, make sure the receptacle it’s plugged into is equipped with a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) to prevent shock or electrocution. When setting up the grill, pick a safe location where there’s no chance of it setting anything combustible alight.

Spa Safety
With all the water in and around them, pools, hot tubs, and spas are dangerous areas for appliances and consumer electronics. Make sure all radios, TVs, blenders, etc. are clear of splashing or dripping water, and that all outlets nearby are GFCI equipped. If an electrical appliance falls into the water, shut off the circuit first before unplugging it. Don’t reach into the water to get it.

Stormy Weather
It’s often said that lightning doesn’t strike the same place twice (actually it does, often more than twice on tall buildings, but it’s a proven fact that it does strike in the United States around 20 million times a year. If you see a storm approaching when you’re outside, try to find shelter indoors; if that’s not possible, get to a low area away from trees and crouch down. If you hear thunder seek shelter, even under a clear blue sky. If you’re swimming in a pool, lake or the ocean, immediately swim to shore and find cover. If you’re in a watercraft, immediately get to shore. Don’t wait till the storm is on top of you; lightning can travel sideways up to ten miles. Avoid metal items like golf clubs or bats, as well as contact with water, either indoors or out. When indoors, stay away from windows, doors, and corded telephones. And don’t forget your furry pet friends, either; dogs that are chained or in a doghouse are at great risk, too.

Electrical Safety Issue Testing A GFCI

Monday, April 9th, 2007

Testing A GFCI is Easy. Here’s How:

1. Plug a nightlight or lamp into the GFCI.

2. Turn the light on and push the TEST button on the GFCI. The GFCI should trip and the light should go off.

3. Press the RESET button. The GFCI should reset and the light should come back on.

4. If the light either does not go off when the TEST button is pressed or does not come back on when the RESET button is pressed, the device is malfunctioning and should be replaced at once. GFCI’s offer vital protection against electric shock; test them regularly for optimal protection.

Tornadoes, hurricanes and floods…oh my! But when it comes to wreaking havoc with your home and personal safety, lightning tops them all!!

Wednesday, March 14th, 2007

Lightning storms may not get the same kind of TV exposure as other catastrophic storms…but they should. Especially when you consider the kind of damage it can cause. The good news is, it’s easy and affordable to provide you and your family with all the protection you need.

Each year, thousands of homes and other properties are damaged or destroyed by lightning. It accounts for more than a quarter billion dollars in property damage annually in the United States. Sadly, lightning also is responsible for more deaths and property loss than tornadoes, hurricanes and floods combined. And yet, of all these violent forces of nature, lightning is the only one we can effectively guard against…and affordably, at that!
In fact, at Applewood Plumbing, Heating & Electric, we can install a lightning protection system in your home that consists of these basic elements:

1. At least two ground rods (electrodes) in your yard at least ten-feet deep.
2. Down conductors.
3. Gutters, dormers, antenna, satellite dishes and weathervane connected to these rooftop conductors.
4. Lightning rods along the ridges of your roof, about 20 feet apart
5. Lightning rods within two feet of the outside corners of your chimney.
6. Surge protectors on your electrical panel or meter.
7. Surge protectors to your household electronic components.

Even without a lightning protection system, there are still several common sense precautions you can take if an electrical storm threatens your neighborhood. These include:

 Do not use your telephone unless there’s an emergency.
 Stay away from all electrical appliances, TVs, fireplaces, metal objects, windows and doors.
 Avoid isolated trees, high ground, bodies of water, or large open areas.
 Seek shelter immediately in a vehicle or enclosed building until the storm blows over.

Where in the U.S. is lightning most likely to strike? In the Northeastern states, caused by the high degree of earth resistivity (the earth’s resistance to conduct current).

To protect your family and home against lightning, and to enjoy greater peace of mind “Around the House”, call Applewood Plumbing, Heating & Electric today.

You Can’t See it, Hear it, or Smell it…But it’s There, All Right… And the Worst Thing You Can Do is Ignore it!

Sunday, December 3rd, 2006

Every year, hundreds of people die from carbon monoxide poisoning, and thousands more become seriously ill. So here’s a quick primer on carbon monoxide (CO) causes, how to minimize their effects, and why you should install a CO (carbon monoxide) detector today!
Carbon monoxide is a natural byproduct of appliances and power tools that burn fuels like natural gas, propane, oil, kerosene, wood, or charcoal. Breathing low levels of CO can cause shortness of breath, mild nausea, and headaches. At higher levels of inhalation, CO can cause drowsiness, nausea, vomiting, and confusion. At the extreme? Loss of consciousness and death.
PROTECTING YOURSELF FROM CO POISONING
Any tool or appliance that is not adequately vented and maintained can be a potential source of CO, including: Furnaces, boilers, stoves, water heaters, fireplaces, BBQ Grills and many more.
So the idea is to prevent CO poisoning from reaching dangerous levels in the first place…and here are a few simple steps to help you accomplish just that:
 Have your heating system, chimney and flue inspected and cleaned by a qualified technician every year.
 Don’t operate gasoline-powered engines in confined areas.
 Choose vented appliances whenever possible.
 Install a carbon monoxide detector with an audible alarm in your home and garage.
ABOUT CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS
If you’re planning to purchase a CO detector – or even if you already own one – check to see that it carries the UL (Underwriters Laboratories) label, a long-term warranty, and that it’s easy to self-test and reset.
Should your CO detector alarm suddenly go off:
 Check for symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning. Should you find any, get everyone out of the house and seek medical attention for those who require it.
 Ventilate your home with fresh air, turn off all potential sources of CO, including your heating system and water heater, etc.
 Have a qualified plumber or heating technician inspect your fuel-burning appliances and chimneys to determine why the alarm sounded in the first place.

5 things to do after an accident on the job

Monday, April 10th, 2006

There are five important measures to follow after serious injuries occur on a job site that will help alleviate many problems.

Every business tries to sustain a safe and injury-free atmosphere for its staff and the public. However, even the safest job sites can have serious accidents occur, and when they do, chaos may result. A smart company and a smart consumer should know that the disorder that follows an accident can cause people to make errors in judgment that could possibly damage the consumer and or the company in a lawsuit.

Every company should have measures prepared to deal with a serious job site accident and should train its employees on how to follow them to help guarantee a fast and safe accident response and protect the company and the consumer should a lawsuit follow the accident.

1. Call 911
The wellbeing of the injured person, and the safety of those on the job site, is the first priority. The company probably has a designated employee to contact to guarantee that the proper emergency personnel are contacted immediately after a serious accident takes place but the homeowner or consumer should also know who to contact.

2. Inform the Companies main office
As soon as the proper authorities have been informed, the consumer or job personnel should notify the main office of the company about the incident. A call should be made to the designated person who knows how to handle such calls and to enact a plan for emergencies. The designated person should get all the facts needed to be sure that there is no more threat of danger on the site or whether additional measures should be taken to lessen any further potential of danger. This person should also have access to the employees’ emergency contact information so it is possible for them to notify the contact about the incident in question.

3. Contact your insurance company
Insurance policies usually pay for legal costs. However, not contacting your insurer until after considerable post-accident activity has occurred can lead to a dispute by the insurer that its capability to defend the consumer and or the injured employee has been weakened due to the lack of communication. Also, most policies require that timely notice is given to the insurance company so they can determine that an insurable event has actually taken place. Be sure that the contact information of the insurance companies that issue policies such as your homeowners insurance or for your company is up-to-date and readily available in the event of an emergency.

4. Call your attorney
Company insurers will likely have specific law firms that they use and provisions in their policies that allow them to select which firm will defend a personal injury suit. This should not prevent a homeowner, employer or contractor from calling their own attorney. An attorney should definitely be contacted for advice before any accident investigation occurs. An experienced lawyer (if legal action appears likely to follow) will direct the investigation and advise the client to communicate with the attorney about the development and results of the case.

5. Call off the job crew
If at all possible, it is best to clear and secure the work site after a serious accident to allow for a proper investigation to take place and to prevent the ruining of evidence. Measures should be taken to ensure that work in progress is safe and protected, but the longer the consumer or employees are left near the site of the accident, the more probable it is that the scene will be disturbed. Furthermore, the consumer and your staff is likely to be distraught, or at least unfocused, because of the accident, which could potentially cause unsafe decisions and possibly another mishap. Employees and the consumer should be informed not to discuss the accident with anyone and should they have any questions, they should request it from the designated contact person at the companies home office. By following the proper measures, companies and consumers can respond to an emergency in a way that protects everybody. The injured person will be protected from a slow emergency response. The staff will be protected from distracted co-workers, the scene of the accident will be protected from being disturbed, and the consumer and company are protected from careless actions or statements that could be used against them it if a lawsuit results.

CARBON MONOXIDE IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Wednesday, January 4th, 2006

Carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning has been one of the more under-publicized household hazards until two events put it in the spotlight. One was the accidental death in September 1994 of tennis star Vitas Gerulaitas, who succumbed to CO while sleeping in a rented home. The other was an ordinance that went into effect October 1, 1994, in Chicago requiring CO detectors in all residences heated by any fossil fuel burning equipment - in effect, all except solar or electrically heated homes. The Chicago law was in reaction to a tragedy that occurred in 1991 when a family of 10 was wiped out by CO poisoning from a faulty furnace installation.
The Consumer Product Safety Commission says that “at least” 500 people are killed each year from CO poisoning, a very conservative estimate. The American Medical Association says it’s more like 1,500 people a year, with another 10,000 or more taking ill.
There is a lot of uncertainty in the numbers because CO is tasteless, colorless and odorless - undetectable except by sophisticated electronic gear. Also, the main symptoms of CO poisoning - fatigue, headaches, dizzy spells and nausea - resemble those of the flu and many other common illnesses. Thus CO poisoning is easily misdiagnosed, and people can succumb to it with very little physical discomfort, almost like falling asleep. (Early news reports treated Gerulaitas’ death as mysterious and were filled with speculation about drugs or foul play.)
CO is given off by incomplete combustion of flammable fuels such as natural gas, oil, wood, coal or kerosene. Common household appliances such as furnaces, boilers, water heaters and stoves are all potential sources of CO gas. All of these products are designed with elaborate safeguards and under normal operating conditions all the CO produced from combustion will be harmlessly vented to the atmosphere.
Poor venting, due to leaks or blockages in the vent system, is the most common cause of CO build-up in the home, followed by cracks or corrosion in a furnace’s heat exchanger. Here are some danger signs and steps you can take to minimize the danger:
* Most important, have your furnace or boiler regularly inspected, at least one a year, by a licensed, competent heating professional. The technician should check all connections to flue piping and vents for cracks, gaps, rust, corrosion or debris. Likewise the inspection should cover the combustion chamber and heat exchanger for cracks, holes, metal fatigue or corrosion, as well as the filters and filtering system for dirt and blockages. Debris should be cleared off the burner and safety switches tested.
* A yellow, lazy-looking flame in a natural gas furnace indicates inefficient fuel burning, and consequently higher levels of carbon monoxide. An inefficient oil furnace will give off an oily odor - but remember, you can’t smell CO itself.
* Chimneys and vents need to be inspected regularly for blockages caused by debris, animal nests or cave-ins. Also beware of cracks and holes. Inspect fireplaces for blocked flues, excess soot and debris.
* Be sure all vents are properly installed - including those leading from the clothes dryer, water heater and wood-burning stoves.
* Never use an unvented space heater indoors. Never burn charcoal inside and do not use your gas stove as a heater. When cooking, keep the oven door closed.
* Avoid running both a furnace and fireplace simultaneously for long periods of time. This can create serious backdrafting that prevents CO gas from exiting the home.
* Never install a boiler, furnace or water heater in an airtight enclosure.
* Look for the following signs that may indicate CO problems - streaks of soot around the service door of a gas appliance; rust spots on flue pipe, boilers, furnaces or water heaters; excessive moisture on basement windows, which may indicate poor ventilation; generally stale air throughout the house, another sign of poor ventilation.
* DO INSTALL A UL-LISTED CO DETECTOR. The UL testing standard requires home CO detectors to sound a warning before CO levels reach over 100 parts per million (ppm) over 90 minutes, 200 ppm over 35 minutes or 400 ppm over 15 minutes. These warning should allow the average person to safely evacuate the premises. (CO levels over 200 ppm lasting for 90 minutes can cause headaches in healthy adults. At 300 ppm the healthy adult may experience drowsiness, at 400 ppm might collapse and 500 ppm exposure could result in brain damage or death.)
Approved CO detectors are now available for around $150 or less. They are similar to smoke detectors in both appearance and installation. The best place to install a CO detector is near bedrooms. Don’t install one in the boiler or furnace room the garage or the kitchen, where it may go off in reaction to temporary elevated levels of CO.
Cheap CO-detection patches that sell for under $10 are not of much use. These devices are based on chemical reactions that change the color of a special spot in the presence of elevated CO. They register many false positives and tell you nothing unless you are looking at the spot for a telltale change of color. What you need is an alarm that alerts you to danger as soon as it arises and wakes you up if you are asleep.
What do you do if the alarm sounds? Vacate the house quickly, opening doors and windows as you leave in order to provide ventilation. Then contact a local emergency service crew - usually the police or fire department - for advice. Depending on your community, they may have a CO measuring device on hand to take a reading inside your home in order to determine if it is safe to move back in.
Keep in mind that the act of ventilating your home may make it safe for immediate occupancy but won’t fix whatever generated excess CO in the first place. As soon as possible you need a professional inspection of all possible CO sources. This should be someone equipped with CO measuring gear able to detect concentrations as small as 5-10 parts per million. The measurement test should be conducted over at least a 24-hour period.
It is possible for a CO alarm to be triggered by a single unusual incident that presents no lasting threat. However, if one ever goes off in your home, you won’t rest easily until you take all the precautions possible to safeguard yourself and your love ones.

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