AFUE
Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. A measure of a gas furnace’s efficiency in converting fuel to energy - the higher the rating, the more efficient the unit. For example: A rating of 90 means that approximately 90 percent of the fuel is used to provide warmth to your home, while the remaining 10 percent escapes as exhaust.

BTU
British Thermal Unit. This is the amount of heat it takes to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. For your home, it represents the measure of heat given off when fuel is burned for heating or the measure of heat extracted from your home for cooling.

CFM
Cubic Feet Per Minute. A standard measurement of airflow. A typical system requires 400 CFM per ton of air conditioning.

Capacity
The output or producing ability of a piece of cooling or heating equipment. Cooling and heating capacities are referred to as BTUs.

Coil
In air conditioning, a network of tubes filled with refrigerant. A coil located inside the home takes heat and moisture out of the air as liquid refrigerant evaporates. Sometimes called a evaporator or cooling coil. See also Condenser.

Compressor
The heart of an air conditioning or heat pump system. It is part of the outdoor unit and pumps refrigerant in order to meet the cooling requirements of the system.

Condenser
That part of a refrigeration system which pumps vaporized refrigerant from the evaporator inside your home, compresses it, liquefies it in the condenser and returns the liquid refrigerant to refrigerant control to remove heat from your home. The compressor is located here.

Damper
Found in ductwork, this movable plate opens and closes to control airflow. Dampers can be used to balance airflow in a duct system. They are also used in zoning to regulate airflow to certain rooms.

Ductwork
Pipes or channels that carry air throughout your home. In a home comfort system, ductwork is critical to performance - in fact, it’s as critical as the equipment.
Gas Furnace Heat Exchanger
Located in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding air, which is then pumped throughout your home.

Heat Exchanger
Device used to transfer heat from a warm or hot surface to a cold or cooler surface. Evaporators and condensers are heat exchangers.

Hot Surface Ignition System
Furnace ignition system in which a silicon carbide element is heated in order to light the main burner. No pilot light is needed.

Packaged Unit
A heating and cooling system contained in one outdoor unit. A package unit is typically installed either beside, on top of the home, or sometimes in the attic.

Refrigerant
A chemical that produces a refrigerating effect - removing heat and humidity from the air - while expanding and vaporizing. Most residential air conditioning systems contain R-22 refrigerant. R-22 is regulated by international controls under the Montreal Protocol and in the United States by the Environmental Protection Agency. It is scheduled to be in production until the year 2020. It’s used in approximately 95 percent of air conditioning equipment manufactured in the U.S. today.

SEER
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. A measure of cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps. (It’s similar to comparing miles per gallon in automobiles.) It is a ratio which compares the cooling output to the electric consumption over a range of temperatures. The higher the seer, the more energy efficient the unit. The government’s minimum SEER rating is 13 as of 2006.

Thermocouple
A device that generates electricity, using the principle that when two dissimilar metals are joined together and the junction is heated, a low voltage will develop across the ends.

Thermostat
A thermostat consists of a series of sensors and relays that monitor and control the functions of a heating and cooling system.

Ton of Refrigeration
Refrigerating effect equal to melting one ton of ice in 24 hours. This may be expressed as follows: 288,000 BTU/24-hours, 12,000 BTU/hour or 200 BTU/minute.

Zoning
A method of dividing a home into different comfort zones so each zone can be independently controlled depending on use and need.

BIO-CLEAN is… a blend of bacteria and enzymes. The bacteria are natural, not genetically-engineered. The enzyme concentration is the most powerful on the market.

SAFE
Bio-Clean is non-poisonous. It creates no heat, no fumes, no boiling. It does not attack live tissue nor inorganic materials, only organic wastes like grease, hair, food particles, paper, cotton & sewage. This makes BIO-CLEAN safe for people, plumbing and the environment. BIO-CLEAN changes the waste particles into water, carbon dioxide and mineral ash which run harmlessly out of your waste system. These elements are then available for plant life.

EFFECTIVE
Within an hour after pouring the bacteria into the drain, the bacteria begin to eat their way into the waste that has accumulated on the sides and top of the drain pipe. This is their natural food. They digest the waste and spread throughout your system, cleaning it completely.

MULTIPURPOSE
• Residential and commercial applications
• All drain and sewer pipes, including:
Kitchen Sinks
Lavatories
Bath tubs
Showers
Floor drains
Laundry drains
Septic tanks and drain fields
Garbage disposal odors
Grease traps
Sewage ejector sumps
Outdoor outhouses and cesspools
R.V. & boat holding tanks
Lift Stations
Cat Litter Boxes
ECONOMICAL
• 100 drain treatments per 2 lb. container
• 2lb. container treats 1,000 gallon septic tank
• Eliminates the need to clean grease traps and cable drains
• Eliminates the need to buy dangerous chemicals
• Eliminates the need to buy deodorant blocks (urinals.)
• Eliminates costly compensation to employees that have been injured by using dangerous chemicals.

Bio Clean Q&A

In Nature all animal and vegetable matter, from insects to mighty oaks, is broken down and recycled into plant food by enzymes and bacteria. BIO-CLEAN uses this same principle to biodegrade animal and vegetable waste in pipes.

Like all living things, bacteria must eat to survive. Fortunately certain types of bacteria will use for food the grease, hair, soap film and all the organic waste that tend to clog peoples drains.

Enzymes act like short order cooks. They prepare food for bacteria by breaking large molecules down into a size the bacteria can “swallow.” Each enzyme works on one specific type of molecule. For example, the protease enzyme only works on protein. Lipase works only on fats.

The bacteria in BIO-CLEAN are dormant while in the jar. When mixed with water they come to life in about 30 minutes. In the meantime the enzymes are breaking down the waste. They are very fast. In fact, they work on contact. When the bacteria revive they are hungry. Each one eats its weight of waste every minute - and they never sleep! As a result of eating and growing they start to multiply through cell division. Their number will double every 30 minutes under favorable conditions.

BIO-CLEAN should be mixed with warm (not hot) water and applied when no water will be drained for six to eight hours. This allows some of the bacteria time to embed themselves into the waste so they won’t be washed out when water is drained again. Complete instructions are inside each container.

Periodic maintenance treatments prevent new organic waste build-up, so no more slow drains or clogs!

Septics • Garbage Disposals • Grease Traps • Sumps with Pumps • Outhouses & Vaults • R.V. & Boat Holding Tanks

SEPTICS

Most septic systems in operation today are not functioning well. The tanks need pumping frequently because of solids build up. All too often the fields stop absorbing water prematurely. The number one reason is the vast array of household chemicals which either inhibit or kill biological action. The coliform bacteria normally present in sewage are in no way equal to present day demands. They are used to warm body temperatures and are poor enzyme producers. They cannot handle synthetic materials present in detergents even under the best conditions.

BIO-CLEAN contains not only potent enzymes, but also contains bacteria that outperform the coliform species in very important ways. They are high producers of enzymes and they are acclimated so that they feed on a larger variety of materials in the waste such as fats and grease, vegetable oil, paper, detergents, fabric softeners, aliphatic and aromatic organic compounds as well as synthetic organics.

Chemicals, bleaches, detergents, food preservatives and bowl cleaners inhibit or kill bacterial action within your system. This lets solids accumulate in the tank, some of which flow out and clog the drain field. BIO-CLEAN will restore the necessary bacterial action and make your system work at full efficiency!

People on a septic system must select their cleaning products very carefully. For a list of recommended cleaning products, consult an authorized BIO-CLEAN dealer.

GARBAGE DISPOSALS

Odors come from waste that sticks to the disposal wall and slowly molds and rots. It is hurled there by the high speed rotating blades. By following BIO-CLEAN instructions this waste will be quickly digested by the live cultures, thus eliminating the odor.

GREASE TRAPS

Cleaning out a grease trap is the worst of jobs in a food service operation. After the horrible odorous muck is removed it still has to be disposed of. Unfortunately, we are running out of landfills to put it in. BIO-CLEAN will digest the grease, eliminating the unwanted task, as well as the disposal of the pollutant. Of course, the grease trap must be large enough to accomplish two things. The flow of the water through the trap must be 1) slowed and 2) cooled, so that the oils and fats can rise and be retained between the baffles while the water continues on down the sewer. Also, a garbage disposal should never discharge into a grease trap. If these criteria are met, daily treatment of the pot sink will maintain the digestive action. By eliminating the need to pump the trap a significant cost savings results.

SUMPS WITH PUMPS

When ground water accumulates in sumps, odors may be noticeable. This is especially true if household or sanitary waste is present. BIO-CLEAN eliminates the odor by quickly digesting organic material in the waste water. Pumps will require less energy when the rotor, housing and lines are free of build-up. Lower energy costs and longer pump life are added bonuses for using BIO-CLEAN.

OUTHOUSES AND VAULTS

Mention an outhouse and the first thing that pops to mind is ODOR! BIO-CLEAN turns the waste into water and carbon dioxide very quickly. This dramatically reduces odor and flies. Cleaning and disposal of the pit become easier and it is more pleasant for the user, too.

R.V. & BOAT HOLDING TANKS

As the waste water level increases in the tank some scum adheres to the sides and sensor. When the tank is drained, more scum is deposited. With continued use, this coating becomes odorous. It is additional weight and reduces tank capacity. There is no large access to the tanks and the build-up is so great that clean-up is difficult and time consuming that replacing the tank is often less expensive!

R.Ver’s using chemicals in their tank are also encountering the new problem of not being able to dispose of their chemically treated waste at many dump stations. Waste water treatment plants do not want this chemical toxicity in their plants, so they charge dump stations large fines.

If BIO-CLEAN is used from the beginning, a tank will drain cleanly, including the sensor, if there is one. Using BIO-CLEAN in a tank previously treated with chemicals will take larger doses and some time to overcome the toxicity. It will, however, remove the old build-up. Waste from tanks treated with BIO-CLEAN is accepted anywhere because it is biologically active.

Q. How can such a small amount of BIO-CLEAN be effective in plumbing?
A. There are millions and millions of bacteria in each spoonful. Each one will eat its weight of waste every 60 seconds. They double in number every 30 minutes, and as they multiply they will spread throughout the entire drain system.

Q.Will it work on a clog?
A. If the material is biodegradable, yes. However, in most cases, the stoppage is not caused by a glob of something in the trap. Most likely, it is several feet of pipe that is filled with “gunk”, and it may take several days for the bacteria to eat through this long blockage. Therefore, it is suggested that a mechanical cable be used to restore the flow. Then begin BIO-CLEAN treatments to remove any remaining waste build-up. Regular maintenance treatments will prevent new build-up.

Q. How long will it take to see the results?
A. Some people notice improvement in a day or two. Almost everyone will see results in one to three weeks. Note: The cleaning process is not completed with the initial five day treatment. The time is determined by the type of material the buildup is comprised of (grease, soap, hair) and the length of the lines. Hair takes the longest to digest.

Q. Should the toilet be flushed after pouring BIO-CLEAN into the bowl?
A. Do not flush for 6-8 hours. The quart of mixture poured into the bowl pushes one quart of water and mixture out of the bowl into the stack. The enzymes and bacteria carried out in the quart leaving the bowl are deposited on the gook coating the pipe. In the following 6-8 hours they embed themselves in the gunk so that when the toilet is next flushed they will not be flushed out of the pipes gunk.

Q. Aren’t chemical drain openers much stronger than BIO-CLEAN ?
A. The strongest chemical in the world can’t climb the side walls of horizontal pipes. Gravity makes all chemicals run along the bottom. Nor can chemicals remove much waste in vertical pipes because they flow through so quickly. The bacteria in BIO-CLEAN are live and will go anywhere there is food for them. They will remove the gunk chemicals leave behind.

Q. Does BIO-CLEAN contain any acid, lye, solvents, perfume or poisonous substances?
A. No.

Q. Will BIO-CLEAN attack tree roots?
A. Only roots that are completely dead. Roots enter sewer pipes seeking water and the rich organic food supplied by the buildup. As roots feed on the waste they grow, branch out and eventually restrict flow. Periodic use of enough BIO-CLEAN and water to reach the root area will eliminate the waste they seek. In this manner, the use of BIO-CLEAN discourages root growth in sewers.

Q. Can BIO-CLEAN really help a septic system?
A. Absolutely- in several ways. The bacteria in BIO-CLEAN are specially selected to digest a larger variety of waste, and metabolize it faster than naturally occurring bacteria or yeast additives. Oils, fats, grease and paper are very difficult for intestinal bacteria to handle. BIO-CLEAN is very effective on these materials. It increases solids destruction, so fewer pumpings are needed and that means money saved.

More complete digestion also means fewer undigested solids leaving the tank. These solids would otherwise form a black gooey accumulation in the leach field and prevent water absorption by the soil. Therefore, BIO-CLEAN extends the life of a leach field.

Q. Are any chemicals incompatible with septic systems?
A. Yes. Chlorine, germicidal products, anti-septics, sanitizers, chemical drain openers, paint, lye, acids, cationic surfactants and food preservatives. And in general, anything that is inorganic (not biodegradable).

Q. Does a garbage disposal and/or automatic dishwasher affect a septic system?
A. Yes-in two ways. Disposals add greater loads. Without frequent BIO-CLEAN treatments, faster accumulation of solids in the tank occurs. Most automatic dishwashing compounds, either powder or gel, contain chlorine, which is damaging to all biological activity. For the least overall problems, don’t use the disposal for material that could go into solid waste or be composted. Use non-chlorinated, biodegradable dishwashing compound and treat regularly with BIO-CLEAN. A complete list of recommended products is available from your authorized BIO-CLEAN dealer.

Q. Does BIO-CLEAN stop odors?
A. Yes, by digesting the waste which is the source of odor.

Q. Does BIO-CLEAN digest hair?
A. Yes. However, it does take much longer than most any other organic material. In drains, soap scum, skin oils, etc. bond hair to pipe surfaces. BIO-CLEAN digests these other materials more quickly, which releases the hair to wash downstream.

Q. How does BIO-CLEAN compare with liquid biological products?
A. BIO-CLEAN is more concentrated, more uniform, more stable (longer shelf life) and more economical. Liquids depend upon preservatives to keep the bacteria dormant while in the bottle. Most have a high percent of surfactant to emulsify oils and fats, not digest them. Enzymes in solution interact with each other, which results in shorter shelf life and/or a single enzyme product.

Q. Does BIO-CLEAN stop odors coming from a cat litter pan?
A. Definitely. Best results can be obtained by washing and drying pan and then sprinkling the bottom with BIO-CLEAN before adding new litter and coating the top with BIO-CLEAN.

Q.What is the shelf life of BIO-CLEAN ?
A. Several years if kept dry at normal temperature.

Q.Environmentally, does BIO-CLEAN help or hurt?
A. BIO-CLEAN is a great help and in no way hurts the ecology. The active ingredients in BIO-CLEAN are enzymes and bacteria which speed up the natural digestion of organic material. This is the only process that recycles organic waste back to plant food. BIO-CLEAN is not harmful to pets or marine life. It is so safe a child can apply it. Because its action is natural, it enhances nature’s ability to cope with man’s pollution.

Q. What if I am not satisfied with the results?
A. BIO-CLEAN comes with 100% money back guarantee. First, make sure all instructions were followed. Second, allow enough time for the conditions involved. If still no favorable results, send the details and a telephone number to us. We are very interested in your satisfaction and we will be happy to help.

Q: My house has aluminum wiring. Can I install standard wiring devices?
No, CO/ALR switches and outlets are required anywhere aluminum wiring has been installed. The terminal screws on CO/ALR devices are made of special materials and designed to grip aluminum wire very tightly. STANDARD DEVICES MUST NEVER BE USED WITH ALUMINUM WIRE. Doing so is a code violation and dangerous because it increases the likelihood of electrical arcing, short circuits, fire and shock.

Q: What do the terms single-pole, 3-Way and 4-Way switch mean?
Single-pole: A standard ON/OFF switch that controls one fixture from one location. 3-Way: A 3-way switch controls one fixture from two locations. For example, a light controlled from either end of a stairway or hallway. In three-way applications, two 3-way switches are required.4-Way: A 4-way switch allows you to control one fixture from three locations. In four-way applications, one 4-way switch and two 3-way switches are required.

Q: I have an outlet with only 2 slots (works with 2-prong plugs only). Can I replace it with an outlet that has 2 slots plus an opening for ground? (works with 3-prong plugs)
You can replace a 2-slot outlet with a grounding outlet only if your home wiring provides a ground connection at the outlet box. A qualified electrician can determine this for you. Otherwise, you must replace a 2-slot outlet with a 2-slot outlet. The National Electrical Code allows you to replace a 2-slot outlet with a GFCI receptacle even if there is no ground connection available. This is a safe, practical solution for upgrading from 2-slot outlets.

Q: Where are GFCIs requried?
GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) receptacles are required by the National Electrical Code (NEC) in kitchens, bathrooms, garages and outdoors. They are also required and in many receptacle locations both inside and outside the home where water is present. A GFCI will detect even a relatively tiny amount of ground fault current and shut off power to its face and any downstream receptacles that are connected to it.

Q: I have an appliance plugged into my GFCI and there’s no power. What do I do?
If your GFCI is working properly, it will shut off power to help prevent a hazardous ground fault condition. First, unplug the appliance from the GFCI. Then, plug in a table lamp or small radio that you know is working properly. Push in the RESET button on the GFCI. The lamp or radio should turn ON. Then push the TEST button. The lamp or radio should go OFF. If both the RESET and TEST buttons are working, the appliance you had plugged in it is previously is damaged and a potential shock hazard. It needs to be repaired or replaced. If you cannot turn the power back ON with the RESET button or if you cannot shut power OFF with the TEST button, you must replace the GFCI.

Q: Can I replace a standard wall switch with a dimmer?
Yes. A dimmer easily replaces a standard wall switch and uses the exact same wiring.

Q: Do dimmers save energy?
Yes. Dimmers do not simply “absorb” power as some people may think. They actually shut off power for a fraction of a second when you dim the lights, but your eyes cannot detect this. Dimming a bulb by 25% uses approximately 20% less energy, and it will help extend bulb life by 4 times as well.

Q: Can a dimmer control a ceiling fan?
No. A dimmer can damage the fan motor. Only use a Fan Speed Control to control a ceiling fan. Fan Speed Controls have special circuitry that will not damage the motor. For ceiling fans with a built-in light fixture, combination Dimmer/Fan Speed Controls are available.

Q: How do I choose the correct plug I need?
NEMA, the electrical manufacturing standards organization, has an established coding system to identify matching plugs and outlets based on their amperage and voltage rating. The NEMA rating is designated on the packaging and the actual plug, connector and outlet. For example, NEMA 5-15 always designates a 15 amp -125 volt rating. Any plug with a NEMA 5-15 rating will fit into any connector or outlet with a NEMA 5-15 rating.

Question: Recently my water bills appear to be rather high. None of the faucets appear to leak. What else could contribute to a high water bill?
Answer: You may want to check to see if a toilet is leaking. First, check the water level to ensure that water is not overflowing the tank by way of the overflow pipe. This is the pipe in the middle of the tank. It has a small tube connected to it. If water is running into the overflow, adjust the fill valve to stop the flow approximately 1inch below the top of the overflow tube or to the water level mark stamped on the side of the tank. Second, put a few drops of food coloring into the tank to test the flush valve mechanism. If the water in the bowl changes color within 15 minutes, this is an indication that water is leaking into the toilet bowl and that the ball or flapper needs to be replaced.

Question: How often should I have my septic system inspected?
Answer: Septic systems should be inspected and pumped a minimum of once every three to four years. You may not be experiencing any problem now, but a full septic tank may allow unwanted solids to flow into the drain field, which is the part of the system that consists of a distribution box, with a series of connected pipes. Each pipe allows water to flow into a bed of stone, that drains into the ground. If paper and other solids flow into the drain field it becomes blocked and ineffective. A blocked drain field is costly to repair or replace.

Question: The temperature of my hot water seems to be higher than what I think I need. How can I conserve energy, yet also be sure that there is an adequate amount of hot water?
Answer: Most people are comfortable with their hot water set at 120 degrees Fahrenheit, which is also the new standard that manufacturers use when pre-setting it at the factory. If you have an older model, set the thermostat at medium. On a gas model, there is a dial on the front of the gas valve for setting the temperature. On electric models, the thermostats (there may be two) are concealed behind the two panels on the side of the tank. NOTE: Turn off the electricity before removing the panels. There are exposed wires behind the panels containing HIGH VOLTAGE.

Question: I am getting a foul odor from a bathroom in the basement. We hardly ever use this bathroom except when we have company. This is embarrassing. What can we do?
Answer: Plumbing systems are designed to prevent foul odors from entering the house by means of the trap attached to fixtures. Traps contain water to seal out foul odors; if the water seal evaporates, the odors enter the house. To solve this problem, pour a bucket of water in each trap, sink, shower and floor drain. This will prevent the odors from entering the house.

Question: In winters past when the weather has turned to freezing, even if we turn off the water to the outside hose and yard faucets, they still freeze and break. What can we do about this?
Answer: Turning off the water is not enough. You must also disconnect the garden hose connected to the faucet to allow the water in the pipe to drain out. This will allow the piping to completely drain and withstand the cold weather.

Question: My shower heads and faucet aerators have a buildup of a white substance around the area where the water comes out. Is there anything I can do other than replacement?
Answer: The unsightly buildup is mineral deposits. To remove these deposits from the showerhead, take a plastic bag and pour a cup of vinegar in it. Place the bag over the showerhead and use a twist tie to hold it in place overnight. In the morning, remove the bag and use an old toothbrush to gently scrub the deposits off. You might be able to remove the aerators from the faucets and allow them to soak in the vinegar overnight.

Question: Our kitchen drain has taken longer than usual to drain during the past year. Should we have it cleaned?
Answer: There is a product available from your plumber that will help with slow drains. The name of the product is Bio-Clean and you can read all about it at the link on this site. Call us to get more information. 303-785-2020. We do not recommend chemical drain cleaners for maintenance as they usually don’t work and they are hard on the piping. Bio-Clean cleans pipes without harming them. If your kitchen sink is completely stopped up however, you will need to have it cleared first. Visit our Bio-Clean page for more info.

Question: I am hearing a whistle sound that seems to be connected to the plumbing system. It comes and goes at times, but I can’t find the cause of it. What could cause this?
Answer: The sound you are describing is usually caused by a toilet fill valve that is slowly leaking. To locate the offending toilet, remove the lid of each toilet tank and adjust the fill valve mechanism until it stops. Once you have found the toilet causing the problem, repair or replace the fill valve.

Question: We need to replace a toilet in our home. We have heard coworkers and friends complain that the new toilets do not flush properly, and that they require multiple flushes. What is the recommendation for toilet replacement?
Answer: When the federal government mandated that new toilets use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush, manufacturers had a challenge; to develop a toilet that would achieve this but that would also flush properly (clear the bowl) and carry the waste to the city sewer or septic system. We have done extensive testing and carry 1.6 toilets that flush. Call us for recommendations.

Question: There are four people in our house, two adults and two teens. We are constantly running out of hot water. After a five-minute shower, the water starts to turn cold. This change occurred quite recently. Help!
Answer: There are two possibilities. First, the dip tube of the water heater has broken off. This is a tube that forces incoming water to the bottom of the tank so that hot water will be drawn off of the top. When the dip tube breaks, cold water entering the tank mixes with the hot water and cools it down. This can occur in both gas and electric models. Second, if your water heater is electric, the lower element that heats the water may not be operating properly, thus only the upper half of the tank will heat up. The cause of this problem could be a bad element or a thermostat malfunction. This type of problem should be evaluated by a qualified technician.

Yes this is a $30 OFF coupon. This coupon is for members of our community that care about and support our local nonprofit organizations. You qualify! You qualify because you were interested enough in supporting our community that you went to our (Applewoods) web site blog $12,000 in 12 Month Giveaway page.

You can use this $30 OFF coupon to reduce the cost of any Applewood Plumbing Heating or Electrical service or repair we do for you. To redeem this coupon and Save $30, simply print this page and give it to your Applewood Plumbing Heating & Electric service tech at the conclusion of your service call.

Thank you for Caring
John Ward
President
Applewood Plumbing Heating & Electric

Gigantic home improvement centers and hardware stores have sprung up to service virtually every community in the country with a vast array of tools and building supplies available to every home owner. You can find literally hundreds of books and magazines dedicated to the subject of home improvement, many in the form of do-it-yourself (DIY) manuals. The craze has also been popularized by TV shows such as the long running PBS “This Old House” series and various others.
Saving money is perhaps the main motivation behind most DIY projects. Coupled with that is the fact that some people simply enjoy working with their hands. They derive a sense of satisfaction out of building things and doing their own repairs. As professional tradespeople, we fully understand this feeling of pride at seeing the fruit of one’s own labor take shape. There is nothing more satisfying than completing a home improvement project successfully. We would be the last to discourage anyone from tackling a simple home improvement project.
However, as professional tradespeople, we also get to see the flip side of that coin on a regular basis. Hardly a week goes by when our company isn’t called to finish or repair a botched job by someone whose expertise didn’t quite match his or her ambition. Here is just a short list of the many unexpected things that tend to arise in home improvement jobs:
 Incomplete instructions. Mr. and Mrs. Home Owner buy one of those packaged products at the home center that comes with installation instructions. However, the instructions are not always written in clear language, or sometimes leave out critical steps. It’s like a cooking recipe that uses terms such as “dicing…simmering…basting.” People who know their way around a kitchen know what to do, but a beginning novice may not be familiar with common cooking terms. The same happens with do-it-yourself work and construction terminology.
 Coping with the unexpected. No matter how detailed the instructions, they cannot account for every possible situation that may arise with a home improvement project. The box containing the kitchen faucet you bought at the new home center may have instructions telling you how to remove the old one and put in the new, but what happens when you discover stripped threads and a rusted “frozen” nut that resists turning by even the strongest hands and pipe wrench?
 Harder and more time-consuming than expected. Most people tackle larger projects on weekends, and maybe for an hour or two at night after they arrive home from their regular jobs. The first few weeks of this is a labor of love. As time passes, though, the project takes up all of a person’s free time and becomes drudgery.
According to the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI), many professional remodelers won’t even take on a DIY job gone bad. They find it too difficult to fix the problem and too many liabilities involved in taking on the work. Often the rescued job may end up costing more that a project started from scratch by a professional, because the professional may have to first “undo” much, if not all of the DIY work.
Here are some guidelines for deciding which jobs to tackle on your own:
 Painting is usually a good DIY job — in fact, it’s the most popular DIY project among home owners. The best part about paint is that it is just paint. If you mess up the job, you can always paint over your mistakes. Local paint companies can offer advice for the best finish. However, if you have to paint high ceilings or tall walls, you may want to call in reinforcements and avoid climbing your ladder.
 Cleaning out gutters and checking the roof are other good spring cleaning tasks; however, replacing a roof should be left to a professional. It is essential that your roof prevent moisture from entering the home. A poorly placed nail, shingle or flashing could mean leaks and water damage.
 If you are patient and detail-orientated, you may be suited to some larger home improvement tasks, ranging from building a patio to replacing a faucet. However, larger projects can get unwieldy for a weekend DIY’er. Be certain that you have the skills and tools needed for the job. Moreover, many product installations require special tools that are not always found in the average household tool chest.
 If the job involves electricity or gas/oil connections, call a professional. One mistake here could be fatal. Most jurisdictions require that certain types of work be performed only by a licensed professional in order to meet building codes and safety requirements.
It’s always best to leave structural work to a professional. Not only could a mistake be dangerous, your home may not meet the local building code. This could make it impossible to sell your home without costly corrective measures.
In addition, EPA regulations forbid the venting of refrigerant gasses into the atmosphere. Keep this in mind when tinkering with an air conditioning unit or refrigeration project.
In the end, the decision boils down to common sense. How long can you afford to be without full use of your home? Remodeling is messy work that often renders one or more rooms off limits. Or, you will be without a key piece of equipment, such as a furnace or water heater or toilet. Professionals can usually do the job a lot faster and minimize the time your home will be disrupted.
If you enjoy DIY projects and are good at completing them and have a lot of spare time to use by all means save yourself some money. But don’t lose sight of the fact that saving a few dollars now often increases the cost of a project in both time and money in the long run.